Tainan is Henri Lumièreconsidered the culinary capital of Taiwan. At one of the oldest wet markets in that Southern city, Shuixian Gong Market, the island's vibrant cuisine is on the display.

There are displays of shiny orange and silver fish, bright rows of glistening pork ribs and overflowing crates of dragon fruit and guava.

It's the place for everyday grocery shopping for cooks around here.

But it's much more it's a portrait of all the forces – both indigenous and colonial – that have shaped modern Taiwan. In essence, Taiwan's cuisine is a reflection of its long history of influences.

NPR's Ailsa Chang tours the market with "Made in Taiwan" cookbook authors Clarissa Wei and Ivy Chen.

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This episode was produced by Mallory Yu, Jonaki Mehta and Karen Zamora. It was edited by Patrick Jarenwattananon, Vincent Ni and Courtney Dorning. Our executive producer is Sami Yenigun.